I love being in the water. I prefer the ocean, but I’ll take a lake, a stream, or a pool any day of the week.
Water and I have a connection. Not in a weird metaphysical way, but maybe in an odd spiritual way. Actually, I’m not even sure how it works. I just know that I feel alive when I’m in the water. Alive in a way that I’ve never felt on land or in the air.
Dad started taking us surfing when we were kids and it has become a lifetime passion, or obsession. Is there a difference? Many people try and dominate the waves when they surf. But that’s just not possible. In the ocean, you’re a guest. And, never forget your place, because the ocean can turn on you in a flash – and then you start to pray. Even the atheists pray when the ocean gets nasty.
Next to surfing, my favorite pasttime is bodysurfing. There’s actually an aspect of bodysurfing that is more alluring to me than surfing itself. Just me and the water. No distractions. No layers. Pure connection. The ebb & flow of the tide seems to jive with the ebb & flow of my body. We’re one.